Day 5: Hondarribia – St Jean Pied de Port (by: Shirley)

Information signs in our area of Texas are in both English and Spanish. In this region of northwest Spain, the signs are in Basque and Spanish. Luckily for us Mamacita reads Spanish so we don't have to worry about not understanding the Basque!

Bonjour! Making use of the super highways aka toll roads, we crossed over into southeast France this morning. We are still in the Basque country of the Pyrenees, very mountainous region. We took a scenic tour of Bayonne (we were not lost, just a little disoriented) on the way to Biarritz.

Parked the car at Biarritz in an underground car park. Walked in the cold and wind (no rain, yes!) to the coast to take pictures. The surf was wild, hitting the rocks with plumes of spray. The beach to the right was empty – too cold and windy. Entering Sainte Eugenie church on the square, we lit a candle at St. Therese chapel and gave thanks for a safe trip. Yes, finally REAL votives with St. Therese's picture on it which required a match. After looking in seaside shops trying to find sweatshirts or sweaters, we finally gave up because the merchandise was so expensive and settled for hot coffee/tea instead.

So many round-a-bouts on the highways and streets in towns. We have learned that if we miss our turn off, we can continue around and around until we figure out the correct one. (That's why we need real candles and matches to light to them).

Driving inland toward St Jean Pied de Port we entered the heart of the Pyrenees. A rapidly running stream running alongside the road is used by canoes/kayakers/rafters – and we thought we were cold! Green pastures have replaced and run up the side of logged-over timbered land, providing pasture of livestock. The higher peaks were snow covered (should have brought those expensive wraps after all).

St. Jean Pied de Port, France is a lovely, smaller town where the El Camino begins. The Citadelle, old castle, towers over the old town whose winding, narrow cobblestone streets are walled by old buildings on stone. We parked our car in a lot at the bottom of the hill below the old town. Taking only what was necessary to spend the night, we walked across the bridge spanning a river. Climbing the stairs to the doorway through the walled part of the old city, we found our charming Hotel Ramuntcho. Oh yes! Just prior to that we had come upon a market where we bought fleecy, warm jackets. We attacked that stall like dogs on a bone! Now we have inexpensive, cozy wraps. After checking in, lunch was at the Restaurant El Patio, operated by a delightful dark skinned woman from England. The food was outstanding – the soup de jour was hot and delicious.

A trip to a Camino store where we bought caps, Tshirts and maps, and then to the accueil St. Jacques to purchase our Carnet de Pelegrin de Saint Jacques, the credential de Pelegrino; our pass showing we have traveled the Camino and to be stamped at each stop along the way. We felt a little like fakes since we are driving, but in the spirit of the event, we got our pass anyway.

Three of our foursome went to see the Church connected to the Citadelle where another candle was lit and prayers were said. Next was a visit to the prison (and dungeon) which has become a museum outfitted in various settings of dress and products used by travelers long time ago – even the Knights Templar were included. Down steep stairs were the prison rooms, including a solitary room where rusty chains still hung on the wall. The Germans used this place in WWII for captured allies trying to make their way back to their forces.

Supper was gastronomically satisfying – thin crust pizza, salad, and vino. Our group's new mademoiselle, Fannette in her Camino beret, would say it was "magnifique (lip kiss)!".

Mademoiselle Fannette and her friends