Day 10: Leon to Lugo – A Collaborative Effort

Saturday found Las Gringuitas engaged with two Canadians at breakfast. They were Jennifer and Frank, cousins who were walking the Camino. This is one thing Jennifer had on her bucket list to do before she turned fifty. Alas! Three of us are old enough to be her mother – no wonder we are car hiking.
It was as difficult getting out of Leon as it was trying to drive into the city. There is mucho road construction and signs confusing (183/121 in Hurst?). We again passed by homes built into the hill, cave-like structures. Driving along N120, we began seeing Peregrinos, who were following yellow arrows as well as the blue and yellow shell signs as they walked along the path just to the right of the road. Passing a service station, we noticed that fuel is 1.40 Euros a liter ($2.00 US a liter or $8.00 US a gallon) plus diesel is cheaper than gasoline.
Santiago – 326 km or 195 miles and we are seeing more and more hikers (and bikers) on the Camino.


Looking across the flat landscape, numerous cement canals thread the fields to water the freshly plowed ground. In the distance, amid the dark clouds, we are enjoying a broad-based rainbow, yet the sun is shining now.

The city of Astorga was entered through a gate in a long standing wall of town. We drive to the town plaza, bought chocolate (the town is famous for this), had a cup of tea/coffee so we could use the facilities, and then drove around to the Bishop's Palace and the Gaudi Cathedral. The museo of the Bishop's Palace was too awesome to describe. The architecture was gothic; grand, beautiful, and so on. The Cathedral was large with many side chapels, only the Capilla de Santisimos had candles – electric but we put a coin in anyway. Watched a blinking light appear and gave thanks for a safe trip thus far.

Leaving Astorga, we followed route N120 west; an older, two land road (paved) that follows the Camino. The sun is out, yet it is sprinkling and we are driving towards mountains covered with snow. We have climbed out of the agricultural area into the foothills where pastures are separated by stone fences. An old road, identified by the swells in the ground, bordered the road. Fannette stopped the car so Shirley could get a picture of the old road that looks so similar to areas along the Chihuahua Trail in Texas. The increasingly narrow road to Foncebadon climbs and twists into the clouds. After much discussion and a couple of turn-a rounds, we drove onto a dirt road (path) which disappeared into a one-lane path. As we continued down this muddy path, we encountered Peregrinos walking the Camino to whom we stopped and gave chocolate that we'd bought in Astorga. At this point, our goal was to find the Iron Cross – a huge cross at the top of a hill where Peregrinos lay rocks they have brought from their country. We brought our rocks in anticipation for this moment and were determined to find it. Our maps said it was just beyond the town of Foncebadon. Many of the books we have read describe the town of Foncebadon as deserted with huge, scary looking dogs laying the middle of the road. Sure enough, as we approached the semi-deserted town, two huge dogs were standing in the middle of the road. We cautiously drove around them and then made a fatal decision – we took a small gravel road that appeared to head up the mountain. An hour and many potholes later, we all agreed the road was a utility road used to lay the wind turbines and would probably not get us to our destination so we backtracked to Foncebadon. We negotiated around the big dogs and went into the only open establishment in the area. Senor cook/waiter/bartender/owner told us the Iron Cross was 2 km up the main paved road. Oh well – nothing like a scenic tour.

Back on the paved road, we found a small iron cross and although we all knew it was not the one described in the books we had read, frankly we didn't care at this point so stopped in the cold, rain and threw our rocks on the small cross. Proceeding northward, just around the bend, was the real Iron Cross (Cruz de Fiero). Once again we got out of the car in the cold wind to take pictures. As we continued down the hillside, we saw several more iron crosses and passed by ruins of an old village that contained a funky abode with directional signs to places around the globe. The twisting, winding paved road down the mountain led to the old town of El Acedo where several pilgrims were seen. On the ascent, we gave chocolate to a man from Paris and one from Alaska. We are really in deep, deep mountains on a treacherous road taking a while to get to the next large city and the autovia to Ponferrada and on to Lugo. Ponferrada sits in a mountain valley, large and modern; flowers and fruit blooming. Yet, there are older historic sections. Finally we are back on the big road. Vamamos! Onward through the mountain passes and tunnels.

Turned off at O'Cebrerio to climb more mountains into the clouds. We are on the Ruta de Milagros now – Route of Miracles. Visited the Royal St. Mary's Church, founded in 836 and the oldest on the Camino where Shirley bought a REAL candle from a monk to place at the shrine of the Virgin and child. Went into a shop where Peggy and Shirley bought another sweatshirt – what does that tell you?

Down the mountains, through the tunnels to Lugo. Followed signs to our apartments, Ciudad de Lugo, and found it without too much difficulty. This parking garage was unique in that it had a car elevator! We drove in, punched our floor number, and then waited while it took us two floors down.

 

After lugging our stuff up to the rooms, we strolled downtown for a quick bite and then back to the room to call it a night. It has been a long driving day. Today temps have been as high as 58 and as low as 40.

 

Day hikers – 4

Peregrinos – 147

Peregrinos con bicicletas - 14