Tuesday, April 17, 2012

Day 6: St Jean Pied de Port to Pamplona (by Shirley)


Breakfast at our Inn, then carried ourselves back to our car park to begin our journey on the Camino de Santiago. At breakfast we saw Brits who were beginning the 450 mile (850 km) trip. We wished them Buen Camino.
 Driving the very winding, up and down road over the Pyrenees, we began to see Pilgrims on their trek. As we traversed the higher elevations we could see snow on the peaks as well as along the road. Stopping at PTO de Ibaneta as snow fell on us, we climbed a small trail to take pictures of a memorial monument to Roland (nephew to Charlemagne). Just a bit further down the hill, we stopped at Roncesvalles, a major Pilgrim stop, to look at the monastery. Only true Peregrinas can enter the refugio. The church, especially the altar, was very ornate. (Sorry the candles were electric). Tea, coffee, and Toblerone chocolate was enjoyed at a quaint Restaurante La Pasada where we sat near a wood fire. Descending the Pyrenees toward Pamplona were numerous Peregrinos (people who walk or ride the Camino). The hiking trail sometimes crosses or runs by the highway, but more often winds its way through the countryside.
 Entering Pamplona surprised us. It was a much larger city than we had anticipated. However, following the signs and asking questions on the Plaza del Castillo, helped us locate the Hotel La Perla, the same place Hemingway stayed when he was in Pamplona. A very nice hotel attendant helped us get settled in our rooms and then parked the car for us. We ate our main meal at the CafĂ© Iruna, where Hemingway hung out. After exploring the plaza, two of the foursome continued exploring. Saw the Plaza de Toros (bullring) where there is a statue of Ernest as well as a plaque near the gate where he sat. Then we scouted our the San Bartolome fort, an immense fortification which in the past guarded Pamplona from the French invaders. Followed the silver shell emblems in the street (Camino marking) to the "I" (tourist info) where we got maps and a walking guide of Pamplona – mostly the old town where we are staying. We all visited the very old Cathedral of the Diocese of Pamplona which was initially begun in Roman times. A massive, beautiful structure partially under restoration. Numerous side chapels with – you guessed it – electric candles!
 Supper was again at a Tapas Bar. Dinner starts at 9:30 pm here so the Texas ladies had snacks again – oh yes, and Helado also. We spend two nights in Pamplona before setting off for further Camino adventures.
 Buenos Noches, amigos!

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