Day 19: Segovia, Spain (by Shirley)

9:36 am and we're off to Segovia by way of Avila. The Catalonia provided good accommodations and excellent breakfast buffet. The Gringuitas had an old fashioned gab session last night trying to digest all the wonders we have seen since Day 1. Lots of laughs remembering! The blog has been a source of great entertainment for us as well as beneficial for recalling our pilgrimage through Spain and Portugal. After 13 different hotels, it has become difficult to recall particular details about each one. Some (like the car garage) stand out more than others.

Driving through the maesata or high mesa towards Avila lies a vast farmland. Some fields are brilliant green wheat; others are brown, plowed fields being prepared for new seeds. Rape also grows here – bright yellow flowers which will become saffron. Stopped in Bracamonte for diesel – this is only the 4^th time we've filled up - 76€ @ 1.4€ per liter or $8 per gallon. As we leave the maesata, climbing into low hills the vegetation turns to scrub oak trees on escarpment and rack fences – and of course, the rain.

The wall (not Roman) around Avila, built around 1100, is the oldest, best preserved, and most complete in Spain. A portion of a different leg of the Camino de Santiago goes through here – we've seen a few pilgrims! We parked in a convenient pull over to take pictures even though the rain was peppering down. Then we drove alongside the wall into the modern city below. The little tourist train was full and a bus deposited a large load of tourists at the gates of the walled city – all with umbrellas and ponchos. Avila is certainly a place where one could spend several days - after all Ste. Teresa of Avila was born here and is rumored to have her little finger entombed in the cathedral. Born in 1515, Ste Teresa founded the Carmelite Nuns, a strict order who apparently never bathed – at least this is the story told to us by Mamasita.

Cold (3 degrees C or 36FF) and rainy, we passed on lingering and drove on to Segovia into a mountainous terrain. Crossing the mountains, Segovia is located in a rolling plain with fields of green interspersed with dry, rocky areas and arroyos. We drove to a turn out where we could take pictures of the Alcazar (fortified palace of Segovia). Of fine Moorish décor, it burned in 1862 and has been completely restored. During the middle ages it was a favorite residence of monarchs of Castile.

Fannette maneuvered through crowded, narrow streets to the Plaza Mayor and our Hotel Infanta Isabel. Wonder of wonders – valet parking is available. Pleasant accommodations in an older, refined hotel right on the plaza near the Cathedral inside the walled city. What more can you ask for?! Lunch was the Menu del Dia (menu of the day) at the Meson Mayor, a very nice restaurant across the plaza from our hotel. We had various dishes – paellas, soup, and mixed salad for starters; pollo and veal for entrees; and ice cream and cheesecake for dessert. Peggy and Fannette chose to look in the shops while Clarita and Shirley sat in the Plaza a while. As we took our siesta, we noticed our rooms were very, very cold. Clarita went to reception to talk about the heat situation and the lady at the desk pushed a button and voila – we had heat. We had pushed every button possible in the rooms to no avail. The lady with the magic touch made all the difference in the world.

Mas tarde, Peggy, Clarita, and Fannette went to stroll around town and maybe find a snack. The weather had improved – warmed up some and quit raining. Several families are in the plaza and a group of young children are playing soccer. Not being very hungry (can you believe that?), purchases of fruit, pastries, and soft drinks were made and brought to the room for a picnic with Shirley. The Chitlins were not a big hit; the oranges and chocolate pastries were!

Emails and blog entries were reviewed. We were "warmed" by the news of the heat wave in West Texas (Abilene 105; Segovia 36) while we shivered in our room. No longer Boa Noite; we are back to Buenos Noches.

Various Pictures of Portugal



Caldo da Reinha Modern Art



Obidos

Fatima

Convent of the Christ (Knights Templar)

Nazare, Portugal

Sunrise @ Narare

City of Nazare

Ascender/Funicular

Day 18: Salamanca, Spain (by: Shirley)

Following breakfast while overlooking the sun shine down on brilliant seas, we left Nazare to drive back towards Spain and Salamanca, the destination for today. The three nurse maids helped Shirley with her luggage and made her comfortable in the car with ice on her knee. As we ride north, we listened to a CD Clarita bought in O Cereiba – kind of Irish Portuguese, very interesting.

It seems we are almost the only vehicle on the road today – IC9 cuts through the forests and is a toll road. After we exit the toll road, we pick up a smaller highway that has more cars. Numerous flooded, or partially flooded fields cover the flatlands – are they rice fields? Cranberry bogs? And needless to say, as we progress inland towards the mountains in Spain, it has begun to rain. We continue to be amazed with the smoothly operated, efficient road system – and where is the trash along the highways and roads? There is none.

Stopped at a roadside rest stop – whoops – it is a hole and footprint facility; no bueno for old people! We're heading for a service station. Before we got there we went through a construction zone on a bridge over a pristine, sparkling blue mountain lake.

We are traveling through the mountains on a two lane road. The area is very scenic – vineyards, orange trees, smoke emerging from chimneys atop those red tiled roofs. And of course, the continuous forest of various types of trees. For you "House Hunters International" fans, there are numerous fixer-uppers in some of these villages of Portugal. As we go around the city of Guarda, Portugal, and descend toward the border of Spain, the terrain reminds one of the area around Carlsbad, New Mexico, but hillier.

We passed through what was once a border crossing into Spain. The custom buildings are empty. The time changed back to one hour later than it was in Portugal (now 1 instead of 12). Since the creation of the European Union, one does not need a passport to travel between countries and of course, the monetary unit is the Euro (€). Driving towards Salamanca, Spain; the terrain begins to look like the Texas Hill Country and then central Texas – low scrub trees opening up to pastoral areas. Passed by Ciudad Rodrigo, which looks like it must have been a walled city at one time. Got off highway near Bocacara at a truck stop for tea and snacks. Sat at a table with a cloth and silver and were informed that we had to move to the back of the room with bare tabletops since we were only having snacks.

As we near Salamanca, the high mesa is very green with fields of green and pastures of sheep and cattle. We again see grain elevators. Salamanca, seen from afar, is an imposing, beautiful sight – exactly what one would envision a city in Spain would look like. But again, narrow streets to get around. Parked the car, packed our backpacks for the night, and took a taxi to the Catalonia. Nice place; good rooms. Got settled and Clarita, Peggy, and Fannette went to the Plaza Mayer to sightsee and eat. Shirley (handicapped physically) stayed in the room and ordered from a Telepizza place. She thinks it will be a salad, drink, and bread, but we will see (handicapped linguistically). Shirley thinks it will be delivered at six, but she is not sure about that either. Also, the TV does not turn on with the power button – it turns on with 1 or 2 and turns off with the power button. Yes! Some cute little guy with a motorcycle helmet delivered Shirley's supper to room 012 (1^st floor) at six and it is exactly what she ordered.

Peggy, Clarita, and Fannette return from their jaunt; it's cold out there. They stopped at Plaza Mayer for a bite to eat and then walked by the cathedrals (old and new); then by the University to see the main door. Clarita asks a young man a question and he launches into a long explanation about the history of the university. Good explanation, but of course, he wants a tip. According to the young man, this is the third oldest university in Europe. Salamanca is a beautiful, old city and well worth the stop.

The Last Supper in Nazare

After our hamburger fiasco at lunch, Clarita, Peggy, and I decided a salad might be nice for supper so we set off a little after 7 to see what we could find. This time we opted for the uptown – the more traditional part of town – as opposed to downtown – the touristy part. We tried one restaurant but they enforced the "cannot eat before 8 rule". We were just about to give up when we turned down a narrow road and happened across a tiny little restaurant, Rosas Dos Ventos. We went in and were promptly greeted in English by the owner. As we were the only ones there, he spent time talking to us. Ray is Portuguese and spent 20 years in Canada before returning to his home town to open this restaurant. His family is all fisher people and his restaurant reflects the history. Along the walls are pictures of his mother and father, grandparents, and himself as a young boy. The typical fishing gear is hung from the ceilings and walls. It was a charming place made even more so by Ray. We got our salads along with an order of clams cooked in garlic and olive oil and he stopped by our table to talk often. Then before we knew it, the place had filled up. In case we haven't mentioned this before, it seems like we have that good aura. Whenever we go into an empty restaurant or shop, in just a few minutes the place is swarming with people. Good for the owners, not always good for us. Ray, however, made a special point of dropping by each table and conversing with the patrons in their language. It took on the atmosphere of a party – warm and cozy. At the table next to us was a British couple, here for a holiday. We made some recommendations to them and then chatted with them while waiting. The Brit guy worked in Europe and had made a list of places he wanted to take his wife when he retired so that is what they are doing now. After we finished our meal, we asked Ray for the dessert menu and he told us he would pick something out for us. He returned with three scrumptious looking desserts – a flan, a mousse, and an almond paste. We took all three and shared them. Then he brought an after dinner port that was absolutely delicious. This more than made up for our awful lunch and the only bad part was that Shirley missed out. We will find a similar experience in Spain in which she can partake.

Day 17: A Day of Rest

Today, after 17 days of going nonstop in rainy, windy, and cold weather, up and down windy, twisty roads, and across the plains and deserts, we decided to take the day off. Yep – you heard right - the day off. The tail begins with a rather dire beginning. After returning from Obidos yesterday, Shirley was making her usual trek up the staircase to her room two flights up when she heard "POP" and felt excruciating pain in her left knee. Apparently as she made the last corner of the staircase, her upper body continued upward while her lower body did not. Although the pain was fearsome, she was more 'inconvenienced' than anything else. Her loyal travel companions retrieved ice and snacks and insured she was comfortable before abandoning her for the sights of Nazare. The day was absolutely gorgeous – the best we have had yet in terms of weather.

Today, Saturday, was not as sunny as yesterday, but at least it isn't raining. This morning Clarita made a trip to the local Farmacia to get Shirley a walking stick. Unfortunately, it really didn't seem to help so Clarita took it back and bought two sticks – the ones that wrap around your arms for support. Sadly, those didn't really help either so back they went. Then Clarita, Peggy, and Fannette remembered a store they had seen yesterday that sold hospital equipment so they trudged up the hill to see what equipment they could find. As luck would have it, the store had a walker and not just any walker. This gizmo was the latest – the Cadillac of walkers with shock absorbers and springs in the upper arm that allow you to inch along as opposed to just thrusting the walker forward. Best of all, the pharmacist or nurse practioner or whatever she was spoke excellent English and was able to give us some practical advice. Thus armed with our new walker we took it back for Shirley to examine. This one, she agreed, was the crown prince of walkers and would be perfect for her. Natch, we are all hoping that a little bed rest, Advil, ice, and sleep with help the healing process, but we want to be armed in case.

Although Clarita had some side trips planned, Fannette really didn't want to drive today. That last tiny, cobblestone road by the castle must have done her in. So the three (Clarita, Peggy, and Fannette) decided to have a day at home to catch up on laundry, reading, and just relaxing. Around 1, the girls decided a hamburger sounded good and set off to find one. Yesterday we had seen tons of signs for them, but today none could be found. We traveled down the major thoroughfare checking out restaurants. Our criterion is relatively simple – a) a place that appears clean and b) has patrons. The first part is easy; the second not so easy. We finally happen across a place that fits both criteria and better yet, the restaurant hawker assures us they have hamburgers, maybe not on the menu but they do have them. He first tries to seat us in the main dining room which is full of a busload of noisy tourists. We insist on the outside patio and he obliges. Finally a waiter comes and we order our hamburgers. Better still – they actually have coke light, something we have found only once the entire trip. Eventually our meal comes – two brown patties, French fries, and rice. The brown patties could resemble hamburgers is you squint and close your good eye. Clarita asks about a bun and the waiter shakes his head before running off. The patties are okay but could use a little catsup so the first chance we have, Clarita asks the waiter if he has catsup. Si, he answers and runs off. We wait and wait and wait. Finally we realize he won't be coming back. She asked him if he had it not if he would bring it to us. We manage to eat the patties and the fries and the first chance we have, Clarita asks for the bill. The waiter says ok and runs off. We wait and wait and wait. Clarita wraps up our left overs and leaves to take them to Shirley while Peggy and I wait and wait and wait. Eventually we get our bill. I feel like running off - 10€ apiece for a hamburger.

The rest of the day we all spent resting. The next few days will be hectic as our trip is coming to an end and we want to get in as much as possible. We leave for Spain tomorrow and will end our day in Salamanca. We are all hoping the run of good weather we have had the past two days will continue with us.

Updates

Sorry about all the typos in the last post - we have a bad connection in Nazare and reloading a page to edit is impossible.

Yesterday we took the ascender or funicular up to the village above us. This is a modern tram system that uses a push/pull method to get the cars up or down the mountainside. I believe this is the most modern one I've ever seen.

The view was absolutely spectacular  The town above has cheaper rooms (no beach) and lots of tourist shops. It was worth the ride up just to see the view.

I tired to post pics but the connection is so lousy that I can't. Maybe later.

Day 16: Nazare, Portugal (by Shirley)

Awakening to a bright, sunny day, we gazed out our corner window on the 2nd (3rd) floor of our beachfront hotel to see several fishermen casting lines with long poles into the sea. During breakfast, we watched as mothers, or grandparents, walked children to school. And the dogs - playful, friendly pups enjoying another day on the beach. After walking the half mile to the car park (underground) in the sun rather than rain, we headed to Calda da Rainha. A smaller road than the autopisa - N242 - took us away from the sea and through areas of farmland, forests, and small towns. Yellow and red flowers abound - an old-fashioned windmill was spotted (the Don Quixote type). We arrived at the market or the center of Calda da Rainha, a crowded city with narrow lanes for one-way streets lined with cars. Finding a parking placed proved to be difficult. We waited in a car park for someone to leave and they did - we pulled into a narrow parking slot with the help of a man who directs the cars for a donation.

The market was a life-style painting, so colorful, so pretty and so completely full of stands offering any type vegetable one desired, most fruits (fresh and dried), olives, cheeses, and gorgeous fresh flowers and potted plants. We purchased some fruit and olives. Walking back to the car we strolled by some modernistic sculpture standing in connected ponds. The tall iron structures were decorated with tiles. The sun feels so good today. We almost purr as we bask in its rays.

The countryside is painted with brown and green fields, scatterings of villages and towns with white walls, and tile roofs - very picturesque.

As we enter Obidos, we can see a castle and walled city atop a hill. Just to the south of it is an aquaduct still standing. We wandered around various winding streets, but could not located Obidos centro. We kept driving out into the countryside . saw beautiful onions in rows along with some other garden crops we could not identify. Eventually turning toward the walled city we found a big car park. From there we got a pamphlet regarding the old city and the castle, stopped to have tea and coffee.  Entering the gate of the walled city, found us among many other visitors speaking multiple languages including school groups.  Potted plants along porch rails of homes situated among steep streets are blooming, beautiful and soon to be growing furiously. Today we all thoroughly enjoyed the warmth of the sun - not only are we absent of our outer coats (bought in St. Jean Pied de Port, remember?), but we are also not waring our light weight inner jackets. we brought from home. Today we are down to long sleeved shirts . except Fannette who is clad in a t-shirt. Of course, we still carried our umbrellas. Obidos, the inner city, is a cobblestone work of art, consisting of Medieval, Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque features - created, destroyed, and rebuilt throughout the centuries. Outside the old walled area lies a modern city with colorful neighborhoods, new schools, a shopping mall - yet the narrow, winding streets persist because the topography demands it. Between these towns and cities, we sometimes ramble along the countryside; other times we hop a toll road and zip along to our next destination. Portugal, like Spain, has a well developed, modern road system - sometimes we miss our turn off, but oh well, we are here to see the country. Even if we do not always know where we are, we are NOT lost.

Day 15; Out and about (by Shirley)

We woke to a clear, sunshine filled day. The cliff, the sea, and sky are framed in our windows. Fannette got out early and walked along the beach fronting the town. After gathering for breakfast, we decided to drive to Fatima and Tomar. We exited the hotel and it had already begun to rain as we walked to the car park 8 blocks or so away from the hotel. We drove east over a new highway looking for a gas station and finally found one in a little town after we turned north on HWY 102.  This is only the third time we have filled the car. This time we were running on fumes so it cost 90 Euro or $135 to fill the tank. There are attendants here who fill the tank for you just like days of yore. This young, cute guy suggested we move the car and fill up with the lesser expensive diesel cause the pump where we were only pumped premium diesel.

We turned off IC2 at Batalha and drove east on N356 to Fatima. There is some road construction through this very colorful countryside which makes it challenging sometimes to decide what road to take. Wind turbines are situated along the hilltop.  We climbed over these hilltops on a winding road up and a winding road down. But no rain here as we pass the pastel colored houses with red tile roofs. Fatima is the scene where in April 1917, three young children witnessed a vision of the virgin Mary. The Sanctuary of Fatima is a huge complex that includes several buildings which are a shrine to this miracle. The Basilica is the church that holds the burial spots of two of the children. Outside is located the Chapel of Apparitions where today a mass was being held in English by a priest from Florida. Numerous penitents were approaching the Basilica on their knees. There was a large outdoor area for lighting of candles (real, not electric) and we did so. We were impressed with the holiness of this place and the gathering of peoples from all over.

We left Fatima, going to Tomar by Ourem. A treacherous drive in the ruin to a castle near Ourem proved to not be our destination. So we had tea and toblerone chocolate to fortify us. Our driver was fearless, even as we slid backwards down a steep, wet cobblestone street . all directions at this point were down, but we made it.

Ourem was where we took a wrong turn so we could enjoy the scenic view of Portugal - which is really populated with small communities every mile or so. Finally reaching Tomar, we sought the Convent of Christ in a Knights of theTemplar compound. Construction was begun in the 12th century and continued until the 17th century.  This large compound of religious areas includes church, chapels, cloisters, dormitories, refectory, sacristies, and numerous supporting rooms. Somewhat in ruins, the Convent of Christ is now under partial restoration as a UNESCO World Heritage site. We couldnºt find a place to eat in Tomar so we headed home towards Nazare. BUT somehow we managed to get ourselves on a brand new road - an in progress super highway with only one passenger car - OURS!  However, workers just stared at us as we drove by - remember we have a fearless driver! We wanted to exit but no exits were open yet. After becoming rather anxious, we finally eased out unto the real road back to Nazare - came to the hotel, had snacks and crashed. We were starved but the dining room doesnºt open until 7pm.

Dinner hour finally arrived and we enjoyed a wonderful meal in front of large windows facing the surf. The sea was crashing upon the rocks as the sun was setting among the clouds. Great end to a day.

Boa noite!

Mystery Solved

On day 12, we mentioned seeing elongated, stone boxes with open slats around the sides which side on stilts atop a low stone hut. We found out they are grain storage bins to protect against the "mices",

Day 14: Nazare, Portugal (by Shirley)

We arose to a driving rainstorm and wind. It is very cloudy here on the mountaintop of the retreat and we - especially the driver - hope it clears as we descend to the valley. There are few of us in the Grand Hotel, so it must be the slow season as the hotel is very comfortable and the employees accomodating and congenial. Breakfast was quite a spread of continental type goodies. Coffee could be made to onés taste from thermoses of coffee and hot water.  How soothing to the soul to sit by the large windows and drink coffee while watching the rain.  We would recommend this place to anyone or a group.  Looking around the room before we leave, I wonder how long ago it was that any of us had a telephone bench in our homes?

Peggy and Fannette loaded the car in a driving (ha - cuse the pun) rain. There was some confusion of the credit cards, but it worked out. A young lady who works at the hotel and speaks English was charming to visit with.

[Before we go on - the bloggist (person typing the blog) is using a Portugese keyboard so excuse any typos.]

After descending the mountain, we drove to Porto, Portugal in a rainstorm - the superhighway was under construction in some areas. However, these efficient roadways make traveling from one place to another easier than navigating through small towns. The tolls do add up, though. As we whizzed through the large city of Porto, we passed by a huge, modern stadium, partially covered with the field open to the sky.  A stop at the highway rest stop refreshed us - tea, ice cream, dulces. Saw a nice looking couple who were traveling by motorcycle - decided that was not for us especially in this downpour.  Because of the intense rain today, we skipped several stops at Guiamares and Coimbra. We opted to drive straight to Nazare on the coast, hoping for a break in the weather.  This part of Portugal seems to be rugged country. The whole area we have traveled in northwest Spain and Portugal makes for a greater appreciation of the strenous efforts of the part of downed military in WWII, being assisted by locals to get to Lisbon and back to Allied territory.

As we bypassed Fiqueira da Faz the rain slacked and the sky lightened - is the sun trying to come out? Nope! Rain increased again. We wondered what grows in the flat, water-filled fields below us - rice, maybe? Turning off the toll road, we crossed some hills, then descended down the sea to Nazare. A wonderous sight introduced us to the sea - white capped Atlantic Ocean crashing into the cliffs to the north, but settling down the beach  in front of town.  Nazare is small with very narrow streets that are hard to navigate - and it is still raining. We unloaded the car at the Hotel Mar Bravo - wet and windy, wild coastline - reminds me of northern California or Oregon, in a way. Although we are off-season, the coastal town appears crowded, especially considering the weather. Our rooms are sparse, but functional - opposite ends of the spectrum from where we housed in elegance last night. A regular seacoast place. A funicular (ascender) goes up the cliff through a tunnel to the upper part of the town. Those folks must have a stupendous view.  We are on the 2nd (3rd) and 3rd (4th) floors in corner rooms with fantastic views of the coast. We ate lunch at our hotel, not in the inside dining room, but in an enclosed cabana just outside the hotel next to the street.  By the look of the number of buses we have seen, Nazare seems to be a great destination for senior citizens. Of course, the seafood would be a big draw. Peggy and Clarita had cod, Fannette had pork with clams, and Shirley had one of the best steaks she has eaten on the Iberian Peninsula (or so she has said after every steak eaten here - catfish seems impossible to find). After lunch, we did some Internet exchanges, read, napped, and gazed out the window hoping against hope the rain would stop.

Tomorrow wé are planning some excursions whether it rains or not!

The Rain…

In Spain may stay mainly in the plains, but in Portugal it stays in the mountains!

Went to bed in the rain; woke up in the rain. We are hoping it will clear some as we head down the mountain to the beach. Last night was the coldest I have been. The only way to get warm was to go to bed. Shirley put on extra t-shirts and a bandana wrapped around her neck. I stuck to keeping my socks on. It was so cold that at one point my breath seemed frozen in one of those "talk balloons" you see in comic strips. Here's what I can't figure out – a few nights ago we were so warm in the room that we had to open the windows to let the cold in. How is that different from having a cold room? We went to bed so early to stay warm that we couldn't sleep. Just about the time I would drift off, the dog across the road would begin barking. This was just one of those nights were everything was off. Not the fault of Portugal or the hotel – just one of those things.

In this hotel the reception is on the first floor and is still 0. Our room is 412 but is on floor 1 which is the second floor but the number would imply it is the 4^th floor. Can't wait to get to our next hotel to figure out their floor configuration.

Day 13: Bom Jesus, Portugal (by Shirley and Fannette)

F: Our iffy wiffy was pretty lame in Santiago. If I stood in the hallway under the wiffy signal and stood on one leg while holding my laptop in one hand with the other extended over my head with my eyes crossed, I might pick up a signal.

S: Reception gave us directions on how to drive the car straight to the Hospederia so we didn't have to carry our suitcases down the hill and out the green door we came in the first day and instead only had to schlep them the ½ mile from reception to the front door. And on to Braga, Portugal, along the well designed Spanish highway. The roundabouts and lack of stop lights make for a smooth flow of traffic. Sun was out when we left, but guess what? It is now sprinkling!

The grapevines in this region nearer the sea and lower altitude are sprouting greenery. The first time we've seen vines coming to life. As we cross various rivers on the autopista del Atlantico we can see the ocean. Shortly before Braga, Portugal, a tea/coffee and pan dulce break prepares us for entry into the city. Learned two new words in Portugese – obrigato (thank you) and bom dia (good day).

So far the hills have been steep, the forests thick, the rivers have water, and the bridges over the gorges are high. A lush, green topography. We zipped by Braga on the autopista, had to get off and backtrack along a scenic route in the valley. Very nice! As we drive through a parquet/forest to Bom Jesus (our place), a sanctuary, we confirm that the smoke we had seen was from burning off the brush cut from the forest. It took us a while and roundabout way to get here, but the Grand Hotel in Bom Jesus outside Braga is wonderful and grand. It sits high on a hill above the city overlooking a vast green valley. We had lunch while we waited for our room to be ready – time here is an hour earlier than it was in Spain; can't figure that one out. Three restaurants on the hillside; we chose the one where the manager came out to drag us in. Great food, good wine – but meal selections are too big and we forget to share selections. Receptionist at front desk of hotel speaks Portugese and French; Mamacita speaks English and Spanish; Fannette speaks English and German; Peggy and Shirley speak English and West Texan, but we were able to make ourselves understood. We got a beautiful, rather old-fashioned ornate room with up-to-date bathrooms (just please shower, don't immerse in tub to save water – according to the note on the door).

Following a short rest period, we went through the gates across from our hotel into the parque, Bom Jesus de Monte, a religious resort sitting high above the surrounding countryside and the city of Braga. The main feature is the sanctuary, a grand monument honoring the Passion of Christ. The outside is awesome, but the inside is something too incredible to describe – the main altar is backed by a greater than life-size statues depicting the crucifixion, including not only Jesus, but the thieves on the other crosses, the Roman soldiers. Mary and Mary Magdalene, and some others. Very ornate and could be disturbing. Side chapels consisted mostly to adoration of Mary. After we had said our own private devotions we offered up a candle at the Chapel on the side that provided such. (Electric, of course, but we have been informed that electric candles are acceptable).

We rode a funicular (called an elevador) from the top to the bottom of the hill where the steps to the "Sanctuary" begins. Origin of this holy place began in the early 14^th century. Little by little the entire monument including the chapels along the stairway and the fountains of the five senses were built. The purpose of this entire grand edifice was to recover and re-edify, in Braga, the city of Jerusalem so that Christians who could not travel to Palestine would come here for their Pilgrimage to a holy place and relive the scenes of the Passing of the Lord. We walked this area from our hotel and the entire way back was uphill. Returning to our hotel, we gathered in one room and had tea and snacks. We called it an evening. No one was willing to walk (up and down the hill or down and up the hill) in the cold to dine out.

Boa noite (Good night)! As we turn on the crystal sconces on either side of our room. The other two have a suite, but we think that room is much colder. Frankly, we'll take February in Texas rather than April in Iberia – except we are having such a good time!

Day 12: Santiago

Breakfast at the Hospederia – looks like a tour group has been staying here. Last evening as we checked in we met a peregrine from Alberta, Canada who had biked the Camino from Pamplona to Santiago. The plaza of the walled city seems to be filled with hikers and bikers. Much of the weather we have encountered in the car has been horrendous – rain, sleet, snow, cold. Even on sunny days it often sprinkles.

The Hospederia San Martin is actually a beautiful, well constructed and renovated monastery. Our rooms are sparse, but efficient. The beds are wide metal cots with slats topped with a thick mattress and quite comfortable. No heat during the day, except in the bathroom when the door is closed and the light is on. Electricity to the room works like most other hotels in which we have stayed. The door key card fits in a special slot that supplies electricity to the room – key out, no lights; key in, lights on. Very energy efficient. Oh yes – the towel rack in the bathroom is almost always heated.

But the elevator went out today. Fannette and Shirley were the last to descend before it broke. Thank goodness it didn't happen when we were on it! To get back to our room, 225, we had to climb four flights of stairs since in Europe the first floor is always listed as the 0 floor except in this hotel where the reception which should be on 0 is really on -1 so our room which should be on the 3^rd floor is really on the 4^th floor. Whew! Who's on third?

We took a tour of Santiago – the central part as well as the residential part – on a cute little train with one side enclosed and one side open and of course, it was raining! Noon found us in the crowded Cathedral de Santiago to celebrate the mass of the peregrinos. The place was packed. A nun with a beautiful voice led some chants before the processional and the beginning of mass, which was in Spanish but easily followed. How warming to participate in the passing of the Peace with who knows how many nationalities. Our governments should do so well. The cathedral is enormous. Where the transept crosses in front of the main altar a huge botofumeiro (incense burner) is sometimes swung while peregrinos names are read But not today. Except on holy days, we think it takes an offering of 300€ or so to have this done.

Lunch of flank steak, fries, and hot tea, and then off to Finisterra (end of the land) to look at the Atlantic. As we started off down the two lane highway over the hills and through the woods, it was … raining! Eventually the sun came out and the day was gorgeous.

Forgot to mention the WiFi which they call Wiffey does not always function here so we call it Iffy Wiffey.

We were still descending the hills when we spied the ocean – beautiful! Drove to an old castle on the hill at the furthest point of Spain. Then we stopped at a small café along the beach overlooking the bay where we had tea/coffee/chocolate. Two Germans were there who had walked from Portugal. We treated them to beer and all wished each other a "Buen Camino". We returned to Santiago by the coast road before turning back inland. The hills are covered with plants and bushes bearing yellow flowers, much like forsythia. There are also elongated stone boxes with open slats around the side that sit on stilts. Are they crypts? Storage huts? Stone greenhouses? We can't decide. It appears to stay much warmer along the coast as lemon trees are full of ripe fruit. Back in Santiago, we are again in a city built among the mountains – the place where St. James (Santiago) remains were found. Yes, raining again.

After a short rest, we strolled the city in search of pizza. After a ½ mile walk, we finally found a restaurant that had pizza as well as Thai, Lebanese, and Greek food. We ordered a few pizzas and salads to share. We've found all over Spain the people are friendly and very accommodating – this place was no different.

Tomorrow we head for Portugal and hopefully, warmer and drier weather.

Day 11: Lugo to Santiago de Compostela (by: Shirley)

Last night we ate in a quaint, little restaurant in the Inner City contained within the oldest completely standing Roman built wall in Spain. Spent the night in a somewhat claustrophobic hotel in Lugo. Although the room was an apartment type setup, the people elevators were small and the one by the lobby took you up to a floor that had only two rooms – neither of which was ours. We returned back to the lobby on the small elevator and went around a corner where the other elevator took us to the floor with multiple rooms. The below ground garage was very close – we had to do a 15 point turn instead of the normal three point to get into our designated space and the elevator which carried the car to the street level entrance was barely large enough for our small Peugot.

 

We're off on N540 to Santiago – filled up with diesel at 1.35€ per liter, just a little under $8.00 a gallon, but we are getting great gas mileage and remember diesel is cheaper than gasoline. The drive to the south of Lugo rambles through a beautiful, rolling, colorful countryside; many trees; green pastures and gardens are being prepared.

 

After turning off N540 to N547, we again met up with the Camino and saw 22 Peregrinos right away. Peggy and Clarita got out of the car at Azura and walked a bit of the Camino. As we neared Santiago de Compostela, we saw more and more hikers (and some bicyclers) as their walking path crisscrosses first one side of the highway and then the other to make use of the best terrain for walking. As we descend the terrain toward Santiago, there again are areas of cut-over timber which have been reforested (trees are very close together in neat rows). Entering the central part of Santiago, we spy a McAuto (McDonald's drive-up only) situated next to a service station and car wash.

 

Maneuvered through the streets of the central city to locate a place to park the car. Walked 1.5 hours through town center (inside the walls) into Cathedral Plaza and several other plazas. After asking directions twice, we found Plaza Immaculata where we are staying in a renovated monastery. It is very pretty; somewhat plain but done in excellent taste. After checking in, getting directions and maps, we walked down steps, down hills, up hills, across flat areas back to our car park. We piling in and paying twice because we didn't leave fast enough, we drove across flat areas, up hills, and down hills to the car park close to the Hospederia San Martin Pinerio – close being a relative term. Since we couldn't figure out how to drive to the front of the hotel in less than 3 hours, we opted to park a few blocks away and haul our luggage through the back gate. We pushed the button on the gate which magically opened and then we hauled our stuff up four sets of steps. This took another half hour or so. Finally all settled in. The rooms are plain, but immaculate (after all, we are housed in a monastery on Plaza Immaculata. Sadly our rooms were quickly trashed by washed clothes hanging everywhere. We're in good shape – no phones, no TVs, no Internet – nothing but time to contemplate. But first we hunted a place to eat (uphill, of course) and came back to our cells and crashed in our laundry rooms.

 

Tomorrow we will see the sites of Santiago and maybe a drive around the area. We have two nights here so we can recover before heading to Portugal.

 

Day hikers: 4

Peregrinos: too many to count

Day 10: Leon to Lugo – A Collaborative Effort

Saturday found Las Gringuitas engaged with two Canadians at breakfast. They were Jennifer and Frank, cousins who were walking the Camino. This is one thing Jennifer had on her bucket list to do before she turned fifty. Alas! Three of us are old enough to be her mother – no wonder we are car hiking.
It was as difficult getting out of Leon as it was trying to drive into the city. There is mucho road construction and signs confusing (183/121 in Hurst?). We again passed by homes built into the hill, cave-like structures. Driving along N120, we began seeing Peregrinos, who were following yellow arrows as well as the blue and yellow shell signs as they walked along the path just to the right of the road. Passing a service station, we noticed that fuel is 1.40 Euros a liter ($2.00 US a liter or $8.00 US a gallon) plus diesel is cheaper than gasoline.
Santiago – 326 km or 195 miles and we are seeing more and more hikers (and bikers) on the Camino.


Looking across the flat landscape, numerous cement canals thread the fields to water the freshly plowed ground. In the distance, amid the dark clouds, we are enjoying a broad-based rainbow, yet the sun is shining now.

The city of Astorga was entered through a gate in a long standing wall of town. We drive to the town plaza, bought chocolate (the town is famous for this), had a cup of tea/coffee so we could use the facilities, and then drove around to the Bishop's Palace and the Gaudi Cathedral. The museo of the Bishop's Palace was too awesome to describe. The architecture was gothic; grand, beautiful, and so on. The Cathedral was large with many side chapels, only the Capilla de Santisimos had candles – electric but we put a coin in anyway. Watched a blinking light appear and gave thanks for a safe trip thus far.

Leaving Astorga, we followed route N120 west; an older, two land road (paved) that follows the Camino. The sun is out, yet it is sprinkling and we are driving towards mountains covered with snow. We have climbed out of the agricultural area into the foothills where pastures are separated by stone fences. An old road, identified by the swells in the ground, bordered the road. Fannette stopped the car so Shirley could get a picture of the old road that looks so similar to areas along the Chihuahua Trail in Texas. The increasingly narrow road to Foncebadon climbs and twists into the clouds. After much discussion and a couple of turn-a rounds, we drove onto a dirt road (path) which disappeared into a one-lane path. As we continued down this muddy path, we encountered Peregrinos walking the Camino to whom we stopped and gave chocolate that we'd bought in Astorga. At this point, our goal was to find the Iron Cross – a huge cross at the top of a hill where Peregrinos lay rocks they have brought from their country. We brought our rocks in anticipation for this moment and were determined to find it. Our maps said it was just beyond the town of Foncebadon. Many of the books we have read describe the town of Foncebadon as deserted with huge, scary looking dogs laying the middle of the road. Sure enough, as we approached the semi-deserted town, two huge dogs were standing in the middle of the road. We cautiously drove around them and then made a fatal decision – we took a small gravel road that appeared to head up the mountain. An hour and many potholes later, we all agreed the road was a utility road used to lay the wind turbines and would probably not get us to our destination so we backtracked to Foncebadon. We negotiated around the big dogs and went into the only open establishment in the area. Senor cook/waiter/bartender/owner told us the Iron Cross was 2 km up the main paved road. Oh well – nothing like a scenic tour.

Back on the paved road, we found a small iron cross and although we all knew it was not the one described in the books we had read, frankly we didn't care at this point so stopped in the cold, rain and threw our rocks on the small cross. Proceeding northward, just around the bend, was the real Iron Cross (Cruz de Fiero). Once again we got out of the car in the cold wind to take pictures. As we continued down the hillside, we saw several more iron crosses and passed by ruins of an old village that contained a funky abode with directional signs to places around the globe. The twisting, winding paved road down the mountain led to the old town of El Acedo where several pilgrims were seen. On the ascent, we gave chocolate to a man from Paris and one from Alaska. We are really in deep, deep mountains on a treacherous road taking a while to get to the next large city and the autovia to Ponferrada and on to Lugo. Ponferrada sits in a mountain valley, large and modern; flowers and fruit blooming. Yet, there are older historic sections. Finally we are back on the big road. Vamamos! Onward through the mountain passes and tunnels.

Turned off at O'Cebrerio to climb more mountains into the clouds. We are on the Ruta de Milagros now – Route of Miracles. Visited the Royal St. Mary's Church, founded in 836 and the oldest on the Camino where Shirley bought a REAL candle from a monk to place at the shrine of the Virgin and child. Went into a shop where Peggy and Shirley bought another sweatshirt – what does that tell you?

Down the mountains, through the tunnels to Lugo. Followed signs to our apartments, Ciudad de Lugo, and found it without too much difficulty. This parking garage was unique in that it had a car elevator! We drove in, punched our floor number, and then waited while it took us two floors down.

 

After lugging our stuff up to the rooms, we strolled downtown for a quick bite and then back to the room to call it a night. It has been a long driving day. Today temps have been as high as 58 and as low as 40.

 

Day hikers – 4

Peregrinos – 147

Peregrinos con bicicletas - 14

Day 9: Burgos to Leon (by Shirley)

Left the very colorful city of Burgos after a vast breakfast spread at our hotel. Decided to start counting the number of Pilgrims we spot today. Peggy is now the official people counter as well as bean counter (book keeper) for the group. The first pilgrim we saw was in our own lobby – a young lady from Germany who was choosing to take the day off and spend the night in a hotel rather than a refugio.

 The topography west of Burgos is not so mountainous – low hills with wheat growing on the flatter areas and grapes on the hillside. We are traveling down the autovia de Santiago – the Camino is to the south of us, but we will meet it again soon near Carrion de los Cordeo (so no Peregrinos to count at this moment). Prior to this locale, the grain elevators have had square silos; here they are round. The land has become more flat. Concrete canals lie empty beside modern sprinklers used to water the grain crops.

 Turned off the autovia at Carrion de los Cordeo where we immediately saw a woman hiker. Traversing very narrow streets, we arrived at the main Church plaza – doors were shut. Did I mention it is sprinkling?

 We left the autovia and are now traveling down 120 where we began to see Camino signs and the pathway for hikers is just to the right of us. Just outside Cervantos de la Creza, there were numerous adobe ruins and some dugouts in the side of a hill. We began to see peregrines again as the Camino ran close to the road. Small cement/sandstone markers are placed intermittently along the path.

 Terradillos de los Templarios was a very small adobe type village. The church had a stork nest atop the bell tower. This is one of many towns where the Knights Templar were stationed. The church was closed and since it was raining again, we passed on a visit.
Near Shahagun we saw two biking Peregrinos. Shahagun seems to be a big farming community. Grain elevators are square again. Land here looks similar to the high plains, yet snow on the mountains can be seen to the northwest. The sun has broken out as we approach Leon. Stopped at a rest stop and found chocolate with El Camino wrappers. One set was 2.50 Euros, but the attendant started telling Fannette that another kind was larger and better and before she knew it, she had spend 3.50 Euros for a chocolate bar and it didn't even have the Camino wrapper.

 Had a difficult time getting to the hotel FC Infanta in Leon. Streets were very narrow and confusing. However, we did see more Peregrinos in town. Stopped and asked a policemen for directions – thank goodness for Mamacita's Spanish – even though we seemed to be in a pedestrian only area. After lengthy directions, about an hour later, wending our way through very narrow, congested streets we found our hotel – then had to circle the block again to get to the parking area. At last, we have rooms!!

A late lunch was had in a very nice restaurant. They accommodated us by taking our pictures and giving us wine cork key chains. Then we proceeded to the Cathedral de Leon which was closed – undergoing extensive renovations. The building appears to be ancient; perhaps part of a walled city. Many older buildings, especially churches are under construction – hmm, is Spain really going under financially? We followed the Camino through the winding central city streets by following the shells embedded in the street as well as yellow arrows pointing the way. Saw a number of Peregrinos. We were able to enter the Iglesias San Isidoro. This building, which seemed ancient, contained modern Scandinavian type pews (the kind you might find at IKEA). The museum did not open until later so we backtracked to the hotel – taking pictures naturally. A female peregrino (peregrina?) stopped Shirley to ask the way to the albeque (refugio). The peregrine discovered Shirley spoke English so they chatted – not until we returned to the hotel did it dawn on Shirley that she could have treated the peregrino to a night in comfort at the Infanta de Leon where we are staying. Is the road to Santiago, as well as the road to Hades, paved with good intentions?

Along the way we also saw groups of people standing by the tall tables outside the tapas bars, where smokers must go. The cold air never, never seems to bother them.

We have been impressed with the Spaniards attempt to conserve energy – low (really low) flush toilets, and the key card that opens the door is also used to control the lights. When the card is placed in a slot, the lights can be turned on. When the card is removed from the slot, all the lights go out – no lights left burning to run up the electricity bills!

 Day Hikers – 4
Peregrinos – 76

Peregrinos de bicicleta - 2

Day 8: Pamplona to Burgos (by Shirley)

Leaving Pamplona, we drove through a tunnel to view an expanse of low hills, cultivated fields of green and mountains to the far south. Turbines charging electricity are numerous. At Puenta del la Reina, (Bridge of the Queen), we were able to participate in the late part of a mass at the Iglesia de Santiago. Pictures of the bridge were taken when Fannette parked on the bridge roadway – only one vehicle honked at us.

We discovered today that we are not 'fake pilgrims' as we suspected, but are 'car hikers' - that made us feel better. We did talk with a man who was biking the Camino. Today was not necessarily a good day to be a hiker or a biker!
The valley where Estella is located is very picturesque with green grain crops on the more level areas and vineyards along the hillsides. There is very little actual flat land – cool and sprinkles of rain today.

The Irachi Monastery near Estella has a wine fountain just below the hill of the monastery. The wine is free for pilgrims. We partially filled a bottle – yuck! They didn't take their socks off before they stomped the grapes. A couple pushing a lightweight pram were walking the Camino with a three year old and a six month old. More power to them!
For a while after leaving the monastery, we could view the hikers along the Camino as we drove down the highways. When we crossed the Rio Eluo at Logrono, we exited the Basque country. Now all the signs are in Spanish solomente. This is wine country, the hillsides covered with neatly pruned vineyards. Numerous large bodegas (wineries) are located here.
Raining, raining as we drive toward Santo Domingo de la Calzado. We can see Peregrinos (pilgrims) walking the Camino which now runs just to the south of the highway. They are draped in raingear, using their walking sticks to provide help in the mud. Snow on the mountains to the southwest. During the worst of the rain, Fannette safely navigates us through several kilometers (miles) of road construction. Santo Domingo de la Calzado was another community of multi-storied buildings with shops on the bottom floor and living quarters above. As we left the town, more hikers were spotted. We have been somewhat surprised to see so many Peregrinos this early in the season. Cool, much rain.

Castilla Delgado provided us with a much needed rest stop – the tea/coffee/chocolate was refreshing. Three, tall, wet Peregrinos came into the truck stop while we were there. Spotted more on the Camino as we drove on towards Burgos. Oh no – it is sleeting now! So glad we are car hikers!

Burgos is a very large city. But we were able to follow the guide book and the road signs to our wonderful sleeping quarters, Meson del Cid, which is right across from the ornate Gothic Burgos Cathedral. An accommodating receptionist guided us to our rooms and showed us where to park the car – indoors and nearby. We unpacked, had a late lunch in a quaint restaurant in the hotel, and then took a trolley to see Burgos. No sooner we were seated when a group of what looked like residents at a Spanish senior center boarded the bus. Rather than spread out, the crammed into our car. The tour was excellent, however, and part of the description was in English. We saw broad avenues lined with trees, many statues, the old wall of the city, entry gates… We finished up at the Cathedral which is too ornate to describe. The Cathedral was started in the 13^th century and contains 18 chapels besides the worship area. The main altar is beyond belief – gilded, many statues, very ornate. El Cid is buried in this cathedral. We exited through the lower cloisters, awed by what we had seen.

Back to the hotel to refresh and gaze out our bedroom windows at the magnificent structure across the plaza from us.

Day 7: Pamplona (by Shirley)

Breakfast at a cute little coffee (Americano type for us) shop were we scarfed down pastries. Cold outside this morning so we made use of our new, warm jackets. Steph – we saw nice framed prints in the café.

Las Gringuitas proceeded to the corral that houses the bulls before the running. Then we walked down the street of the running of the bulls during the fiesta of St. Fermin. Included was a stop and look at the Public Market. We were very impressed with the Museo del encierro, the museum dedicated to the running of the bulls. The guide was charming, the displays well done – many of them utilizing different forms of technology. Our friend, Ernesto, was properly honored. The video of the running was in Spanish and English and part of it was 3-D. Fannette performed a virtual running – we think she quit just as she was 'gored'. We stopped for pastries where we met a peregrine from Minnesota. Went to the room at La Perla to drop off packages and enjoy the pastries. Then to the Plaza de Toros (bullring) and to see the statue of the running of the bulls.

Lunch time!!! A verdura (green veggies) soup, bread and vino. Then back to La Perla for a nap! Later we went to buy fruit, knickknacks, and stop in a cutesy tea shop. The tea came in a French-press teapot and was delicious. Hit the spot on a cold, misty afternoon.


Our groups is divided for dinner plans – two will stay in; two will go out. Hmmm! Which ones will do what?

And then there was one (by Fannette)

If you've been following the blog, you may have noticed a pattern. For the past several days, after lunch activities have been loosing popularity among the group. Each day enthusiasm has waned until finally today, only one group member was left to fend for herself in the city of Pamplona. Of course, the others will be raring to go at 8 pm and she will be ready to call it a day.

Yesterday some of us happened across the old battlements of the city. Today the one left finished exploring the area. I followed the shell markings for the Camino de Santiago pilgrims and ended up outside the old city gates. Apparently, the city of Pamplona realized the city gates were preventing the city from growing and down they came. Rather than remove them completely, they were reconstructed in a park to the south of town. The gates form a part of a walking park surrounded by flowers, benches, fountains - very peaceful in the midst of a busy city.

The walls form a natural barrier or division of the city and are still in existence. Bridges have been created to merge the old part with the new city and thus keeping Pamplona united.

Although the weather was not necessarily conducive to a walk, at least it was not pouring down rain and the cool wind was a little bit invigorating!

Day 6: St Jean Pied de Port to Pamplona (by Shirley)

Breakfast at our Inn, then carried ourselves back to our car park to begin our journey on the Camino de Santiago. At breakfast we saw Brits who were beginning the 450 mile (850 km) trip. We wished them Buen Camino.

 Driving the very winding, up and down road over the Pyrenees, we began to see Pilgrims on their trek. As we traversed the higher elevations we could see snow on the peaks as well as along the road. Stopping at PTO de Ibaneta as snow fell on us, we climbed a small trail to take pictures of a memorial monument to Roland (nephew to Charlemagne). Just a bit further down the hill, we stopped at Roncesvalles, a major Pilgrim stop, to look at the monastery. Only true Peregrinas can enter the refugio. The church, especially the altar, was very ornate. (Sorry the candles were electric). Tea, coffee, and Toblerone chocolate was enjoyed at a quaint Restaurante La Pasada where we sat near a wood fire. Descending the Pyrenees toward Pamplona were numerous Peregrinos (people who walk or ride the Camino). The hiking trail sometimes crosses or runs by the highway, but more often winds its way through the countryside.

 Entering Pamplona surprised us. It was a much larger city than we had anticipated. However, following the signs and asking questions on the Plaza del Castillo, helped us locate the Hotel La Perla, the same place Hemingway stayed when he was in Pamplona. A very nice hotel attendant helped us get settled in our rooms and then parked the car for us. We ate our main meal at the Café Iruna, where Hemingway hung out. After exploring the plaza, two of the foursome continued exploring. Saw the Plaza de Toros (bullring) where there is a statue of Ernest as well as a plaque near the gate where he sat. Then we scouted our the San Bartolome fort, an immense fortification which in the past guarded Pamplona from the French invaders. Followed the silver shell emblems in the street (Camino marking) to the "I" (tourist info) where we got maps and a walking guide of Pamplona – mostly the old town where we are staying. We all visited the very old Cathedral of the Diocese of Pamplona which was initially begun in Roman times. A massive, beautiful structure partially under restoration. Numerous side chapels with – you guessed it – electric candles!

 Supper was again at a Tapas Bar. Dinner starts at 9:30 pm here so the Texas ladies had snacks again – oh yes, and Helado also. We spend two nights in Pamplona before setting off for further Camino adventures.
 Buenos Noches, amigos!

Day 5: Hondarribia – St Jean Pied de Port (by: Shirley)

Information signs in our area of Texas are in both English and Spanish. In this region of northwest Spain, the signs are in Basque and Spanish. Luckily for us Mamacita reads Spanish so we don't have to worry about not understanding the Basque!

Bonjour! Making use of the super highways aka toll roads, we crossed over into southeast France this morning. We are still in the Basque country of the Pyrenees, very mountainous region. We took a scenic tour of Bayonne (we were not lost, just a little disoriented) on the way to Biarritz.

Parked the car at Biarritz in an underground car park. Walked in the cold and wind (no rain, yes!) to the coast to take pictures. The surf was wild, hitting the rocks with plumes of spray. The beach to the right was empty – too cold and windy. Entering Sainte Eugenie church on the square, we lit a candle at St. Therese chapel and gave thanks for a safe trip. Yes, finally REAL votives with St. Therese's picture on it which required a match. After looking in seaside shops trying to find sweatshirts or sweaters, we finally gave up because the merchandise was so expensive and settled for hot coffee/tea instead.

So many round-a-bouts on the highways and streets in towns. We have learned that if we miss our turn off, we can continue around and around until we figure out the correct one. (That's why we need real candles and matches to light to them).

Driving inland toward St Jean Pied de Port we entered the heart of the Pyrenees. A rapidly running stream running alongside the road is used by canoes/kayakers/rafters – and we thought we were cold! Green pastures have replaced and run up the side of logged-over timbered land, providing pasture of livestock. The higher peaks were snow covered (should have brought those expensive wraps after all).

St. Jean Pied de Port, France is a lovely, smaller town where the El Camino begins. The Citadelle, old castle, towers over the old town whose winding, narrow cobblestone streets are walled by old buildings on stone. We parked our car in a lot at the bottom of the hill below the old town. Taking only what was necessary to spend the night, we walked across the bridge spanning a river. Climbing the stairs to the doorway through the walled part of the old city, we found our charming Hotel Ramuntcho. Oh yes! Just prior to that we had come upon a market where we bought fleecy, warm jackets. We attacked that stall like dogs on a bone! Now we have inexpensive, cozy wraps. After checking in, lunch was at the Restaurant El Patio, operated by a delightful dark skinned woman from England. The food was outstanding – the soup de jour was hot and delicious.

A trip to a Camino store where we bought caps, Tshirts and maps, and then to the accueil St. Jacques to purchase our Carnet de Pelegrin de Saint Jacques, the credential de Pelegrino; our pass showing we have traveled the Camino and to be stamped at each stop along the way. We felt a little like fakes since we are driving, but in the spirit of the event, we got our pass anyway.

Three of our foursome went to see the Church connected to the Citadelle where another candle was lit and prayers were said. Next was a visit to the prison (and dungeon) which has become a museum outfitted in various settings of dress and products used by travelers long time ago – even the Knights Templar were included. Down steep stairs were the prison rooms, including a solitary room where rusty chains still hung on the wall. The Germans used this place in WWII for captured allies trying to make their way back to their forces.

Supper was gastronomically satisfying – thin crust pizza, salad, and vino. Our group's new mademoiselle, Fannette in her Camino beret, would say it was "magnifique (lip kiss)!".

Mademoiselle Fannette and her friends

Fannette's photostream

Fandotnet's photostream on Flickr.

smattering of pics of Spain

Hondarribia

Outside escalator

Watch tower on walled city

Pictures of Guernika